Once I reach town, I will attend mass at the cathedral. They have a huge mass three or four times daily, so I can always find one. And if I attend I always sit in the nave, to the left or right of the altar, in case the tiraboleiros appear in their burgundy robes, to swing the giant incense burner at the end of the mass. In this picture you can see the Botefumeiro hanging from the ceiling. If they’re going to use it in a service, they lower it from the ceiling and fill it with burning incense before they start swinging it.
The incense fumes float up to the ceiling and symbolize our prayers going up to God This incense burner is pretty spectacular in that it weighs 200 pounds and swings in a huge arc, it almost seems to touch the ceiling at either end of the building. Eight men are pulling on the ropes and giving it all they have. They ask us to put our cameras away so I don’t try to film it myself.
Another thing I love is the rooftop tour of the cathedral. You can go up by the tower stairs and walk around on the roof, look in the windows and check things out from a different angle.
A third favorite of mine are the “Tunas” or Estudiantinas, men’s singing groups. They dress in medieval costumes and play guitars snd mandolins, and sing traditional songs, some more modern ones with their old-style harmonies. What I especially love is that the crowd sings along.
I’ll try to put a video into this post. If it comes through, you can hear the audience clapping and singing along.
None of the old videos from this original blog 16 years ago is up or running, so I don’t know if -or for how long- this one will work.

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